Bare breasts, face masks and one-legged pants: It’s Paris Fashion Week
March 6, 2015 - fall Denim
Bare breasts, face masks and one-legged, sk-ants (skirt-pants) on a runway can usually meant one thing: It’s Paris Fashion Week.
The tumble 2015 shows kicked off Tuesday, with a early slots assigned by a new category of up-and-coming designers jockeying for courtesy from press, buyers–and even Paris Fashion Week mainstay, rapper/designer Kanye West.
From my perspective, a front-runner in a competition is Yang Li, 27, a Chinese-born, Australian-bred engineer now formed in London who launched his tag 3 years ago and is on his approach to redefining oppulance for a millennial era with his code of grunge romanticism.
It was all about serious magnificence in his tumble collection, from a fraying hem of a immature taffeta military-style dusk gown, to a angled cut of a red leather zip front top, ragged over a fraying silk miniskirt, to a askew hardness of a dulcet strapless cocktail frock, ragged over flared black trousers–an garb that looks like it belongs on a irritable cocktail star Lorde. (In fact, a models all had a Lorde-ish look, with dim lipstick and their hair pulled back.)
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Another buzzed-about newbie is Simon Porte Jacquemus, 25, a educated engineer and former sales partner during Comme des Garcons, who launched his tag (called Jacqemus) during a age of 19, and has given been nominated twice for a LVMH Fashion Prize for rising designers.
FOR THE RECORD
March 5, 12:08 p.m.: An progressing chronicle of this essay settled that Simon Porte Jacquemus is 24. He is 25.
Jacquemus played adult his naive, alien standing with a collection titled, “L’Enfant du Soleil,” in that he pronounced he hoped to constraint a childlike communication of a Michael Gondry film. “A childlike woman,” he wrote in a uncover notes, “clothes from her father, her mother…freedom to have fun.”
At their best, a garments were suggestive of Picasso’s Cubist artworks with obsolete fabric shapes placed on a physique like paper cutouts on a collage. A navy blue, white and immature off-shoulder blouse, and navy hang dress had a minimalist appeal, for example, and a frail white side-tie shirt with a black, double collar a certain charm.
But many of it was more art square than fashion, and a styling some-more serious than joyful. A dress with hand-shaped cut-outs groping a breasts done me squirm, and paper face masks with holes pierced by a eyes were also startling.
If Jacqemus is a artsy, “free to be we and me” child of Paris’ new class, afterwards Anthony Vaccarello is a sex pot. He launched his collection in 2009, after operative with Karl Lagerfeld for Fendi. And progressing this year, Vaccarello was tapped by his conform angel godmother Donatella Versace to pattern her lower-priced Versus line after doing several successful capsules for a label.
With their high leg slits and low thrust fronts, his namesake designs have done utterly a symbol in Hollywood (Jennifer Lopez and Rihanna are fans), so it seemed good for Vaccarello, 33, to spin to a stars for inspiration.
Black mini dresses expel a voluptuous spell with star-studded embellishment, or steel border that clanked as models walked. Vaccarello’s prophesy of tailoring concerned black tunics with oversized china bend belts, and some-more steel decoration down a sides, and one-legged pants/skirts (sk-ants). The collection had a voluptuous zing, yet felt some-more like a excellence of prior ideas than an evolution.
Cédric Charlier, 27, is a engineer whose temperament is harder to discern. A Belgian, he started his tag in 2012 after a army during Cacherel, and given afterwards his collections have during times been artsy, during times minimal, and during times futuristic.
This season, it was all about French prep, including sporty, 1960/70s-inspired basics with an edge, silken obvious leather ditch coats, blade plat skirts, color-blocked knits, scarfy imitation silk dresses, and sequin shifts with an jaunty polish. It was a lot of smart-looking pieces, yet what subsequent season?
A not-so-new, yet newly rebranded engineer to know is Christophe Lemaire, 35, who left Hermès in 2014 after 4 years as artistic executive to concentration on his possess namesake label, Lemaire, and announced progressing this week he will be conceptualizing a plug for Japanese quick conform tradesman Uniqlo, following in a footsteps of Jil Sander and others.
Lemaire hold his uncover during a National Library of France, that suits his intelligent aesthetic. There were midi hang skirts, off-shoulder tops, swingy coats and shawls, and essential boots with ballet-like effervescent laces during a ankle, all exuding a still oppulance that’s not so good played on a runway, perhaps, yet should work in a wardrobes of women who conclude The Row and other minimalist labels.
Wednesday finished with a cocktail celebration hosted by Delphine Arnault, executive clamp boss of oppulance firm Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy, that owns a Vuitton, Dior and Celine conform brands, among others. The eventuality distinguished LVMH’s interest to subsequent gen talent, featuring 26 new designers brief listed for a second year of a LVMH Fashion Prize, that will be announced in May, and includes a 300,000-euro bonus. The organisation presented pivotal looks from their tumble collections on racks set adult during a LVMH headquarters, as Champagne and nibbles were served.
Among a extraordinary newcomers from all over a world: New York-based Baja East, that specializes in ambisexual luxe knitwear; London-based Faustine Steinmetz, who fuses denim with rubber and felted wool; and Paris-based Koche by engineer Christelle Koche, who elevates skater wear with excellent fabrics and embroidery.
Perhaps many intriguing though, given a set and setting, was Paris-based Vetements. A tag of deceptively elementary clothing, it’s designed by a common of 7 that insists on anonymity, and seems to be positioning itself as a kind of anti-big luxury, oppulance brand.