Celine and Lorde uncover how to do Paris Fashion Week
March 9, 2015 - fall Denim
It’s suitable that Phoebe Philo showed her tumble collection for Celine on International Women’s Day, since her talent is in conceptualizing garments that feel like they are finished for women by women.
The quirky self-assuredness of Celine is a distant cry from a peep-show edging we saw on a runway during Nina Ricci, the tush-squeezing palazzo pants during Balmain, the hobble skirts during Balenciaga, and a nipple-exposing perfect shirts during Acne Studios.
And appreciate goodness. Because while there might have been a place for nakedness and physique obstruction on a runways during one time, it’s a 21st century, people. We’ve been there, finished that. How about display us garments with grace and integrity, and while you’re during it, a new thought or two?
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That’s what Philo did during Celine; she stepped out on that lumber and dared to be different. From a unequivocally initial looks, boiled nap knits dotted with black-and-white flowers that hinted during a kind of pretty-ugly fashionable pieces we design to see from someone such as Rei Kawakubo rather than a large oppulance house, it was transparent this wasn’t going to be a cut-and-dried collection of tranquil lines and severe minimalism.
Philo let go creatively, unleashing a some-more imperfect, genuine beauty — starting with a common palette of orange, yellow, red, cream, ivory and black. All a habit seemed to be entrance dismantled or to be somewhat contorted — padded coats pulling detached during a shoulder seams, tromp l’oeil ribbed sweaters with buttoned bra fastenings in back, even stylish asymmetrical leather skirts or exaggerated, thick-waistband trousers peeking out from underneath inexhaustible tunics.
Leather trenches came with drawstring waists, shifts with a smattering of leather patches, and blouses with animal prints (literally, sketched images of foxes and badgers). And those critters were cute!
And if we don’t wish to be impeded with one of Celine’s new zebra-striped bucket bags, how about a leather holster instead? The anti-status standing bag, it review some-more nerdy practical than haute fashion, only like those fur Birkenstocks Philo showed a few years back, that totally altered a oppulance boots game. Again this season, a boots were equally useful — white high-top sneakers, or corpulent low-heeled, open-weave leather ballet flats, some drizzling crystals from a heels.
Philo also dabbled in eveningwear, display a integrate of color-blocked silk trip dresses that skimmed rather than hugged a body, with a fibre of fur pompoms thrown over a shoulder, rather than a stole. It was wacky, yet infrequently dumb is good. Instead of giving mouth use to a thought of individual, particular style, like so many other designers have this week (ahem, John Galliano), Philo showed idiosyncratic pieces guaranteed not to already be in your wardrobe.
And that’s reason adequate to go to a store, since Celine isn’t sole online. You have to go only to check this things out. Forget all a hoopla around luminary front rows, elaborate sets and live music; this was a genuine conform happening.
Things were approach some-more predicted during Chloe, where engineer Clare Waight Keller has a close on a feel-good independent look. Even yet a floaty silk Stevie Nicks gowns, patchwork ponchos, denim jumpsuits, ankle-grazing shearling and cashmere troops coats weren’t revolutionary, they were covetable in their infrequent effortlessness, for when a lady doesn’t indispensably wish her garments to pronounce for her.
Booth Moore Forget a clothes. Paris Fashion Week was scarcely hijacked by a integrate of gold blondes on Thursday, as a creatively painted thatch of Kim Kardashian and Jared Leto stole a spotlight when they attended a Balmain and Lanvin conform shows. Forget a clothes. Paris Fashion Week was scarcely hijacked by a integrate of gold blondes on Thursday, as a creatively painted thatch of Kim Kardashian and Jared Leto stole a spotlight when they attended a Balmain and Lanvin conform shows. ( Booth Moore ) –>
Pop songstress Lorde was in a front row, all of 18 years aged and looking like a many mature chairman in a room in a flattering white blouse, black trousers and elementary high-heel sandals, and refusing many photos and interviews. She knows something a lot of celebs don’t; there can be good energy in sitting sensitively and selecting your difference wisely.
Kenzo designers (and Opening Ceremony founders) Humberto Leon and Carol Lim showed their tumble collection during a unison space on a hinterland of Paris on Sunday morning.
And it was a uncover all right, with a live opening (at 10 a.m.!) from a rope Saint Etienne and huge, mirrored monoliths that changed up, down and around a runway stage, who knows how.
The garments were what you’d design from Kenzo — color, settlement and layers. But this season, a collection was some-more polished than street, and reduction difficult than in past seasons. Progress.
The conceptualizing twin overwhelmed on a few of a season’s trends, namely long, knife-pleated skirts, oversized shearling bomber jackets, silky varsity jackets and storm-ready ponchos. They also showed a few sleek-looking breathe suits, one in burgundy with orange-and-black racing-stripe details, that could assistance move Kenzo to an older, some-more worldly audience.
The mirrored monoliths and live song were unequivocally beside a point, yet they certain jolted people watchful — and generated hum online. Look, something shiny!
I got a feeling that was what was going on during Givenchy with Riccardo Tisci’s over-the-top face baubles, nose rings and other piercings.
I theory that’s what we need to get clicks, that and celebrities in a front row (Kim Kardashian, of course, as good as Kanye West, Kris Jenner, Katy Perry, Jessica Chastain and Amanda Seyfried — speak about a full house). If that wasn’t adequate entertainment, there were operative pinball machines and selected arcade games strewn around a set. Look, bells and whistles!