Derek Lam 10 Crosby
December 5, 2014 - fall Denim
Last week, Derek Lam 10 Crosby non-stop a initial store in Soho. It’s a large impulse for a brand. For Pre-Fall, clamp boss of settlement Liz Giardina revisited Lam’s signatures—easy silhouettes, manly vs. delicate contrast, abounding colors, and prints—and gave them a cool, boho-chic spin. Her starting indicate was Lygia Carvalho Pape, a Brazilian artist who specialized in xylograph prints in a ’50s and ’60s. Stamped on rice paper, a wood’s healthy pellet lent an worldly vibe to a artwork. Giardina grown an strange imitation on cream board denim with blown-up, blocky shapes and a bellow pattern. The xylograph judgment also shabby a approach a panoply were constructed: Sleek silhouettes and sculptural fabrics (like connected crepe and tender denim) hold their shapes on or off a body, and coats had hulk block pockets that seemed to be tacked on with little china studs. Many of a garments were pieced together with those studs in lieu of zippers or buttons, like a double-slit dress that could be let out adult to a hipbones. A bullion bar holding adult that leggy dress was indeed a removable necklace—a initial for a brand. Accessories were a large focus: Giardina stretched a shoe operation and introduced a bucket bag. The genuine highlights of a collection, though, were a fabrics. They’re pivotal to environment a code detached in a swarming contemporary space. There was lots of leather, like a span of supersoft navy trousers; silken haircalf in abounding shades of Mediterranean blue, “redwood” (a brownish burgundy), and pacifist gray; and ditsy-print silk georgette, that lent some good contrariety (plus a spirit of ’70s flair) to all a structure.