Fashion » Up from a Underground: Glenn Martens Is Transforming Y/Project
June 16, 2016 - fall Denim
Tucked divided in a 600-square-foot studio, several floors above an aged song venue in Paris, Y/Project’s Glenn Martens is branch out some of a many engaging and sparkling garments in conform right now. His designs, precious and frequently shot by tip stylists like Melanie Ward and Mel Ottenberg, are a postmodern mash-up of a romantic, a smartly tailored, and a streetwise—often in a unaccompanied look. “What we do is a bit complicated,” a 33-year-old Belgian engineer concedes. “But it works.”
Martens insincere a purpose of artistic executive of Y/Project in 2013, after a cofounder, Yohan Serfaty, upheld divided from cancer. The brooding subterraneous men’s wear line has given developed into a forward-thinking women’s tag that, along with others like Vetements, Courrèges, and Jacquemus, is jolt adult a Paris conform establishment. Martens has also been named one of a 8 finalists for this year’s LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers—the leader of that will be announced this month.
“When we took over, Y/Project was really different,” says Martens, a graduate—along with Vetements’ Demna Gvasalia—of Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts. “But in a past year, it’s turn what we illusory it to be.” His ideas branch from all demeanour of durations and places—say, Gothic pattern or girls he sees on a subway—which he skilfully adapts to his unaccompanied and really of-the-moment vision. “We put it all in,” Martens says. “And afterwards we pull it to a edge. I’m always seeking myself, Are we going too far?”
His tumble women’s collection, that he presented for a initial time during Paris Fashion Week, was a autarchic balancing act of severe and fragile, oversize and lean. Voluminous bishop-sleeve blouses were ragged with slim denim pants; ruff-collar string shirts were interconnected with leather miniskirts. Biker pants, so prolonged they were scrunched adult to a knee, butched adult a velvet-and-lace turtleneck, and a cutout bustier combined a pointed hold of sex interest to a relating glen paid overcoat. Martens finished many of a looks with inexpensive white pumps procured in Chinatown and tribal-looking earrings of his possess design. “The whole collection is about leisure and absurdity,” he says. “We try to have fun, and we consider that translates into a clothes.”
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