From Fashion Week Stockholm: 7 Names to Know – Vogue
February 4, 2018 - fall Denim
Fashion Week Stockholm got a reboot for a Fall 2018 season. Filippa Knutsson, who returned to a tag she founded in 1993, set a gait with a good uncover on streamlined classics, that she presented on a stellar expel in a pattern gallery. Totême and House of Dagmar also chose locations that related Scandinavian pattern to Swedish fashion. The region’s cold meridian desirous neck-warming scarves and good outerwear, some done with recycled down, though a demeanour of a deteriorate was a mistake fur teddy bear coat.
Also adding feverishness to a week were shows by rising designers, some of that were presented as partial of a organisation tour (Swedish Fashion Talents), sponsored by a Swedish Fashion Council. It was during these presentations that issues of gender, sustainability, and activism were addressed many directly. Per Götesson and PRLE’s Andreas Danielsson due elegant takes on menswear, a former personification with proportions and deconstruction, a latter with a ’70s-inflected bohemianism. Fifteen-year-old Ingrid Berg presented a collection of embellished denim that put a millennial spin on a DIY aesthetic, while a organisation during K-ourage took a mount for inclusion and tellurian rights by promulgation their artistic and romantic code ambassadors down a runway alongside their models. Making a opposite kind of confidant matter were Ingy Stockholm’s outsize earrings, that were shown in a organisation appendage uncover and seen gilding a globes of one of a many Norwegian bloggers in attendance. Rave Review, that uses usually upcycled materials, and Hi on Life, a code that supports normal tailoring in Ghana, where their garments are made, were both focused on sustainability, an emanate that is of flourishing regard in a attention and among nature-loving Swedes.
Here, a many forward-looking collections shown in Stockholm.
Brand: Rave Review
Designers: Josephine Bergqvist and Livia Schück
Founded: 2017, Stockholm
The look: Upcycled couture
This pattern twin complicated together during Beckmans School of Design and launched their line final deteriorate in Paris. Bergqvist and Schück are women on a mission. Leveraging a industry’s flourishing seductiveness in sustainability, their aim is “to work with recycling progressively” and uncover that tolerable conform can demeanour high-end. So distant a span are sourcing their materials during secondhand shops and online, and as they grow they devise to work with recycling companies abroad. Though their Fall impulse was witches, there was zero dim or scary about their innovative collection, that non-stop with a lacy white dress and enclosed deconstructed leather coats with sweeping inserts. “For us,” a designers explain, “the magician thesis stands for feminism—being absolute and mysterious, passionate and provocative, all a facilities that we wish to prominence and also what is evil for a brand.”
Designer: Andreas Danielsson
Founded: 2013, Malmö
The look: 1970s adrogynous
Danielsson complicated patternmaking and sewing during Tillskärarakademin Malmö and interned with CMMN SWDN before rising his possess tag 5 years ago. Pronounced “par-lay,” a name is subsequent from a French parlé (“to speak”), and indeed Danielsson’s voice is singular and his summary considered. He waited 4 years after going solo to start showing, overdue to “the prolonged training routine of anticipating my aesthetics and ‘reason for being.’” There’s an central clarity to Danielsson’s designs, that this deteriorate total such manifold elements as velvet ribbon, round shirts, and corduroy. “My categorical inspiration,” he says, “comes from my romanticized picture of a ’70s, a leisure revolution, and a on-going and androgynous aesthetic.”
Team: Anna Blomquist, Jacob Bernhardtz, Magnus Klahr
Founded: 2016, Stockholm
The look: Woke
This code was innate out of a possibility assembly between attention veterans on a subway. The team—Blomquist, designer; Bernhardtz, e-commerce expert; and Klahr, art director—is joined in their enterprise to use their creativity to foster certain change in a world. “We consider there is a yearning among people to uncover they care,” explains Blomquist, “and we are hopefully a approach to assistance them do that; to devour according to their beliefs.” Ideology doesn’t meddle with a clean-lined fashions a association is creating. Rather than gaunt on slogans, K-ourage works with ambassadors who consolidate a code values, like 42-year-old Tess Asplund, who faced down 300 neo-Nazis during a convene in Sweden. One of a ways that Blomquist has found to demonstrate aplomb sartorially is by incorporating elements of medical corsetry into a collections; these are not recognised as constraints though exist to assistance women “in a gentle approach to proudly widen their backs with their heads up,” says a designer.
Brand: Per Götesson
Designer: Per Götesson
Founded: 2016, London
The look: Menswear pulled into new proportions
After presenting his Fall 2018 collection in London, Götesson trafficked to Stockholm to attend in a Swedish Fashion Talents show, where he inaugurated to uncover looks from any of his 4 collections. These enclosed equipment incited inside-out, pajamas as daywear, a vest done of bottle tops, and thespian jeans with a volume of a round skirt. Götesson, who worked with Ann-Sofie Back and is a connoisseur of London’s Royal College of Art menswear course, says his starting indicate is his possess habit and by “skewing proportions we am personification with new silhouettes in menswear.” Though not a proponent of Scandi minimalism, a designer’s birthright is an change on his work. “Growing adult in a tiny place [Vimmerby],” Götesson explains, “has rather shabby my fondness toward a really typical and everyday.”
Brand: Hi on Life
Designer: Malin Busck
Founded: 2009, Malmö/Accra
The look: Streetwear that crosses cultures
Busck marries African tailoring and textiles with travel silhouettes. During Fashion Week Stockholm, where streetwear is underrepresented, a engineer staged an off-schedule pop-up featuring a opening by Belgrade-born Swedish rapper Gnucci (Ana Rab). While a DJ cranked out tunes, Busck photographed friends in her new collection, that had a rave-club feel.
Brand: Iggy Jeans
Designer: Ingrid Berg
Founded: 2017, Stockholm
The look: Millennial DIY
“I started portrayal selected jeans to emanate something fun and unique,” says Berg, who is a youngest engineer ever to uncover during Fashion Week Stockholm. The 15-year-old was detected final year by Cheap Monday owner Örjan Andersson while wearing her possess embellished denim during his boutique, Från Ö Till A. He has carried her designs given then. “I have always desired sauce up, blending and relating clothes, and pushing my relatives [Boo.com cofounder Kasja Leander and remarkable art executive Joel Berg] nuts,” a teen says. “Lucky for them, we went to a propagandize where uniforms were a requirement.” Though singular in range, Berg’s “kooky” pieces and relating truth interest to her associate millennials. “I don’t have one aesthetic,” she says. “Also, we don’t take myself too seriously; all only ends adult being too tedious then. we adore splendid colors and prints, and we like to consider of my character as my own. we adore conform for all of a fun and fun it can move to your day.”
Brand: Ingy Stockholm
Designer: Ingela Klementz Farago
Founded: 2017, Stockholm
The look: Softened and Midas-touched Brutalism
Late final year Klemetz-Farago launched her label, a line of matter valuables she hopes will inspire women “to be desirous and to dare.” Bold statements positively fit Klemetz-Farago, a statuesque beauty with a gusto for Comme des Garçons and a craving for a new. “It’s smashing to create, and this has been critical to me as prolonged as we can remember,” says a multitasking Swede, who also works as a photographer, curator, and publisher of conform books with her husband, Peter Farago. Nature informs a designer’s jewelry, that is done of gilded timber that is treated to be light as a feather. Like a couple’s photography, Klemetz-Farago’s pieces exist somewhere between conform and art.