February 27, 2018 - fall Denim
Marine Serre patrician her superb third collection Manic Soul Machine, a reflection, as she put it, on a roller-coaster float of a initial 6 months of heading her possess label. It’s apt. Even adult until a few years ago, a initial half-year for a new engineer was a relations doddle; we usually had to spin adult and furnish a second collection to feel like we were in a game. But now, a hyper-speed during that a attention moves means designers like Serre have to understanding with not usually a voraciousness of a craving for newness though being means to benefaction to a universe a cohesive and unchanging picture from a get-go as well. It’s nonetheless harder still if you’re someone like Serre, who is not usually a poignant talent though also self-aware and contemplative about how conform can find a place in today’s universe and what it should indeed mount for. Consideration of a political, a societal, a cultural, a sexual—they’re as most partial of who she is as they are partial of creation good clothes. Which she does, and afterwards some.
Serre continued to try her hybrid of practical functionality, jaunty prowess, and civic protection. She variously riffed on a crescent moon—her signature motif—for bodysuits, some cut high on a face as if a models were participating in a just-finished Winter Olympics; moiré taffeta jackets and pants; perv-chic pure cosmetic raincoats, several in blood red; and usually when we consider we can’t demeanour during jeans anymore, out walked some good denim, namely a godet skirt, quilted biker-ish pants, and an hourglass coupler cut with round panels and seamed to demeanour like a basketball court. The coupler shape, she pronounced backstage afterward, was designed to communicate a position of toughness.