Sacai Pre-Fall 2016

January 22, 2016 - fall Denim

Chitose Abe bewitched and astounded with her pre-fall lineup.

Chitose Abe has a forged out an ultraspecific niche with her cross-pollinated designs for Sacai, and it can’t be easy to keep it fresh. So far, she hasn’t had a seared impulse and pre-fall was explanation that she can sojourn committed to hybrid panoply though being hemmed in by them. The collection bewitched as it surprised: Three of a 34 looks were monochromatic, a monument in a Sacai lineup.


Declaring that “burgundy is a new navy,” — maybe in a curtsy to Rei Kawakubo’s famous Eighties revelation that “Red is a new black” — Abe worked adult sum looks in burgundy guipure edging in a leopard motif. Like Kawakubo, Abe is a master of pattern-making, though while Rei goes abstract, Chitose keeps things real, zeroing on in informed habit equipment and compliance them in innumerable combinations. Here, she chose a trenchcoat and a MA-1 troops coupler as her primary bases. She stretched a purpose of ditch belts, regulating them to string a flared sleeves of a classical beige ditch and around a thighs of “bondage” pants to outcome a cold new proportion. Versions of a MA-1 came feminized in Army immature guipure; finished from Fair Isle knits; or spliced with a tailored coupler to emanate trompe l’oeil layering.


There was denim and a poignant folkloric moment, including tapestry fabrics. Unifying a operation of themes were mountaineering references, including sheepskin tops cut like outdoorsy fleece jackets and a footwear: corpulent height sandals loosely desirous by classical hiking boots and a new hiking foot finished in partnership with Japanese association Hender Scheme.

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