Sacai RTW Fall 2017 – WWD
March 9, 2017 - fall Denim
By now, Chitose Abe’s hybrid constructions are created in mill during Sacai. No matter what instruction she goes for a collection, her splicing process is what tethers a demeanour to a particular core aesthetic. Having such a clever anchor frees Abe to pursue many opposite references, that was a lane she took for fall.
Operating underneath a truth of “doing what she wants to do, when she wants and how she wants,” as Abe pronounced backstage, she put a stretch of informed and borrowed ideas and styles into a lineup: regretful athleticism; techno bourgeois; animalia; collegiate; girly denim; classical Parisian, and an loyalty to Karl Lagerfeld’s Chanel. All those many things considered, a lineup was easy to swallow. The silhouettes, yet energetically detailed, felt reduction difficult than when Abe goes to city splicing and dicing a singular theme.
She wanted to challenge conventions, be giveaway to wear to a imagination cooking a “casual” denim apron dress layered with honeyed white floral edging and an implausible white fur puffer coupler that winked during a classical Patagonia. There were styles for many moods and occasions. Nylon parkas and zipped lane pants with romantic, Victorian floral embroideries were really opposite from a yellow and navy houndstooth ditch layered with a sporty blue windbreaker. A burgundy and navy weave lane coupler with inexhaustible white fur trim had a kooky campus vibe, while a coupler and dress that looked like a Chanel suit, a lane fit and a men’s shirt collided had a lady-letting-loose attitude. Another delightfully cockeyed take on a dress fit bequest of Karl and Coco came in a form of a puffer coupler and aggressively zipped dress in white tweed with black trim. So Abe wanted to request her prophesy to iconic codes belonging to another house? She knew what she wanted to do, when and how she wanted.