Sonia Rykiel Designer Julie de Libran on her Favorite Paris Haunts
March 6, 2015 - fall Denim
IT SEEMED QUITE NATURAL—fated even—when
Julie de Libran
accepted a pursuit of artistic executive of French tag Sonia Rykiel final year. “[The brand] felt like partial of me already,” pronounced Ms. de Libran, 43. “I was always really desirous by [Sonia’s] work.” The designer, who formerly worked for
as womenswear studio executive during Louis Vuitton, also had several ’70s-era Rykiel pieces handed down by her mom in active revolution in her wardrobe.
Ms. de Libran’s initial collection has only strike stores, after an insinuate Sep runway entrance during a brand’s Saint-Germain boutique in Paris’s Left Bank, attended by friends like
a fan from a designer’s Louis Vuitton days, and photographer
who supposing an picture for a invitation. The worldly nonetheless gamine clothes—’70s-inspired fringed knits, denim overalls and jumpsuits for evening—demonstrated how good Ms. de Libran has tapped into and updated a suggestion of a brand, that has struggled to find a voice in a hands of others given Ms. Rykiel late in 2009.
Ms. de Libran, who was innate in Aix-en-Provence in a south of France before spending 10 years in Rancho Santa Fe, Calif., has lived full-time in Paris given 2008 with her father and 8-year-old son. With her unstrenuously undone hair, scarcely makeup-free face and accidentally discriminating look, she seems each in. a Parisienne. Her résumé includes a few stints operative for Italian brands, many particularly Prada, where she hold several comparison positions for a decade, operative for Miuccia Prada, one of a strongest womanlike designers in an attention still dominated by men.
Still, she refuses to pull gender lines. “There is a unsentimental side in women [designers] for sure,” she said. “We are a ones wearing a product, though that doesn’t meant a male can’t have that creativity.” At any rate, she’s not quite pragmatic. “I consider women dress to greatfully themselves,” she added, “but also to play a certain role, either that’s in a small black dress, jeans and sneakers or a marabou coat.”
While scheming for her second runway show, maturation in Paris on Monday, Ms. de Libran took a mangle to exhibit that loud shoes drives her crazy, given her birthdays go unobserved and where she likes to go in Paris to eat, to emporium and to copy an shun to a country.
My breakfast is: customarily oatmeal and ginger tea. we never used to eat breakfast. But for adequate appetite to final all day, it’s important.
The smell we like to wear is: Prada’s men’s [version of] Infusion d’Iris. It was combined by Daniela Roche-Andrier, who is a tighten crony and gifted nose. She has done me several tradition scents.
A lady should never wear: flip-flops. we always give a same answer to that question. It’s a sound that bothers me most.
The app we use many is: Instagram. My robe began early on when my hermit suggested we do it to share cinema given [my family] all lives in opposite places. we didn’t comprehend how critical it would turn [in fashion], though maybe now it’s not as many fun.
I’m now reading: Anjelica Huston’s memoir “Watch Me.” I’m into a partial when she was a indication and afterwards became an singer and met Jack Nicholson.
My pattern heroes are: Charlotte Perriand and Rei Kawakubo. we was indeed means to combine with [Charlotte’s] family and repository for a [Spring 2014] Louis Vuitton Icônes collection. And Rei is an impulse given she does what she wants and promotes a talents around her.
My favorite side of Paris is: a Left Bank, substantially given of a story and a stories—all a culture, a hangouts like Café de Flore. And of course, a Sonia connection.
I collect: selected jewelry. My collection isn’t large though I’ve been ardent about it for some time. we have a span of black Verdura cuffs with kaleidoscopic stones. They remind me of Coco Chanel. The final thing we bought was a Cartier Baignoire watch with a satin rope from a ’60s.
When traveling, we always pack: a men’s blazer, a white shirt, a black sweater and a navy sweater, a weave cape, a sequined T-shirt dress, Joëlle Ciocco creams and my leather agenda.
The grill we go to many in Paris is: Le Duc, where we mostly lay during a bar and have a discerning bite. The fish carpaccio is extraordinary.
The disproportion between Parisian and New York character is: that New Yorkers, in general, are really put-together and their demeanour is suspicion through. Parisian women dress some-more according to their mood. Sometimes things are out of place, though it creates a certain charm.
My Sunday slight is: spending time with my family. Maybe we’ll go to a organic outside marketplace on Boulevard Raspail, and afterwards we competence take my 8-year-old son stone climbing nearby Fontainebleau.
My favorite tone is: a dim blue. we have a shearling carpet that shade in my bureau and an Hermès Kelly bag. we like a thought of a blue-black.
The best children’s stores are: Bonton on Rue de Grenelle in Paris and J. Crew in New York, nearby where we stay during a Mercer Hotel. They’re both ideal for boys.
If we could live in another era, it would be: a ’70s. The character was so glamorous and sexy. I’ve always been a ’70s girl, though we feel a clever tie now given a Rykiel conformation was so clever during that period.
To get away, we go to: a home nearby Landes in a southwest Armagnac region. It’s not on a ocean, though it’s close.
My practice slight is: yoga classes during Studio Kinétique in Paris when we have time. we have also started doing sessions during home.
I customarily applaud my birthday by: not celebrating, given it customarily falls during a conform week. That sounds sad, though mostly we get extraordinary flowers in a office. Birthdays have never been a large understanding for me.
One of my favorite places in Paris is: a Hotel Particulier in Montmartre. It’s apparently in a city though we feel like you’re in a countryside.
A noted present was: a Louis Vuitton crocodile fountain coop given to me by my group during Vuitton. we use it to write thank-you notes.
My workspace is: never as neat as I’d like, though I’m perplexing to be really neat. My sourroundings is critical to me. we have a lot of books, and I’m pang a bit given they’re not all [in my new office] and we need them close.
While working, we listen to: a lot of Sophie Auster. She sang during a pre-fall [presentation] in New York. we adore how her voice is so peaceful.
I stay loose by: gripping a journal. It’s my possess therapy and a approach to structure myself. we could go behind to 1999 and tell we what we was doing.
—Edited from an talk by Amy Verner