Viktor & Rolf Couture Fall 2017 – WWD
July 8, 2017 - fall Denim
Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren have always been complicated on concept, and here a pattern twin went complicated on fabric with a uncover formed on lashings of a padded Japanese high-tech fabric manipulated into warped, couture-ified versions of that common practical men’s wear staple, a bomber jacket. They came paraded, in a show’s opening section, on “haute couture transformation dolls.” (Read: models sporting waggish oversized dolls’ heads and Dr. Martens.) “Reality is so surreal sometimes, nowadays, so we wanted to uncover a surreal and a real,” pronounced Snoeren, summing adult their goal “in a nutshell.”
The designers morphed a mantle each that approach possible, including flipping it inside-out to put a reserve orange on a outside. One sported a hulk trimming collar; another an accumulation of heading bows during a back, with folk patchwork quilting — a delay of a brand’s upcycling transformation — gradually creeping into a equation. The second section continued though a bobble heads and a couture bombers unzipped over streetwise patchwork denim and T-shirts.
The uncover felt suggestive of past concepts — a brand’s tumble 1998 Atomic Bomb collection exploring dual ways of wearing a same outfits, say, or a tumble 1999 Russian Doll collection — though but a same poetry. On a and side, it was presumably one of their many wearable collections given interlude ready-to-wear.
More From Paris Haute Couture Week Fall 2017:
Chanel Couture Fall 2017: Karl Lagerfeld focused on an essential principle common by a Eiffel Tower and couture itself: soundness of structure.
Backstage during Christian Dior Couture Fall 2017: Peter Philips and Guido Palau fashioned a beauty demeanour of a show.
Atelier Versace Couture Fall 2017: The collection blended Baroque references and stone ’n’ hurl — with a soupçon of 3-D printing.
Iris outpost Herpen Couture Fall 2017: For her 10th anniversary show, a engineer sent out aquatic-themed creations to a opening by underwater organisation Between Music.
Paris Couture Gains Extra Day as Confidence Returns: France’s Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture has welcomed 5 brands as guest members on this season’s schedule.