Your Top Seven Men’s Style Questions, Answered
February 28, 2015 - fall Denim
Lettering by Angela Southern; F. Martin Ramin/The Wall Street Journal, Grooming by Joseph Carrillo, Hair by Britt White, Model: Luke Hogan/Wilhelmina Models
PARKAS HAVE a certain rugged charm. But with open inching closer, who could censure a style-minded male for meditative about sauce a small lighter, looser and—dare we say?—more daringly. Dispensing with socks. Indulging in some
-esque stubble. Wearing a tone that doesn’t naturally start in a fur of a rat.
Anytime we try into trendier territory, however, we face new dilemmas. Not all trends are total equal, after all. Some yield a acquire change; others have outlived their moment; still others should never have had that impulse in a initial place. It’s all a matter for healthy debate, generally when it comes to looks that competence be suitable during a beach or a nation bar yet won’t pass pattern during any workplace that isn’t an art gallery/advertising agency/strip joint. “I consider open is a small some-more treacherous” than tumble in terms of holding trends to work, pronounced
co-founder and artistic executive of a Brooklyn-based wardrobe line J.McLaughlin.
Still, even if you’re usually relaxation adult your demeanour during off-hours, certainly one or dual of a following of-the-moment expressions are value attempting. How to do it? “If we wish to try a trend, collect one, not four. That’s always been my rule,” counseled New York-based menswear engineer
Let a discuss begin.
Is it still stylish to wear white sneakers with a suit?
YES | Though not a freshest trend, this stays viable in some-more artistic or infrequent workplaces. “I’m a organisation supporter,” pronounced New York-based menswear engineer
“It does need confidence, yet in my bureau sourroundings we occur to be a boss.” (That said, Mr. Olch—tired of saying group span suits with self-consciously stylish Jack Purcells—has taken to wearing prosy white Keds.) The key, explains branding consultant Andy Spade, a associate Manhattanite, is head-to-toe ease: “It’s a mistake to do it with a unequivocally tailored suit.” Better to go with infrequent constructions by Agnès B. or A.P.C.
NO | Even for creatives, disagree some, this trend is starting to demeanour clearly stale. And for anyone who works in a some-more buttoned-up bureau or isn’t attending a marriage in a Sonoma Valley, it stays a head-scratcher. “If we wish to dress down a suit, take off a tie and barter out a blazer for a infrequent jacket,” suggested
a customer associate during J.P. Morgan Securities in New York. “If we wish to wear sneakers, chuck on some jeans and call it a day.”
Is it ever OK to leave my dress shirt untucked?
YES | “I consider tailored, flat-bottom-hem shirts work good untucked in a infrequent setting,” pronounced Robin Yan, a executive during Bravia Capital in Hong Kong. And, of course, not all button-up shirts are dress shirts; plaids and work shirts by a likes of J. Crew and
get a pass. Meanwhile, Alexander Olch carries dress shirts privately designed to be left untucked—with a cropped shirttail that sits usually next a waistline. Mr. Olch argued, heretically, that they demeanour “all a some-more interesting” when ragged with a fit and tie.
NO | Any scold dress shirt with tails is meant to be tucked in. “I indeed fun about a ‘date shirt,’ that we see guys wearing untucked with bad jeans and square-toed shoes. To me, that demeanour was out a notation it started,” Mr. Snyder said. Mr. McLaughlin, too, has no forgiveness when it comes to unprotected shirttails. “I have this picture of shirts with assertive stripes or paisley, with these dueling patterns and interior trim and resisting cuffs,” he said. “It’s dated. It’s a Vegas look.”
Can we lift off denim-on-denim?
YES | Though variations on a supposed Canadian tuxedo stomped down open runways during high-end brands from Bally to Burberry Prorsum, Mr. Spade avoids engineer labels when wearing denim head-to-toe, a demeanour he endorses: “An aged Levi’s 501 with a dried foot and a great chambray shirt—I’m in advertising, and I’d wear that to work.” Chambray—resembling denim, yet some-more simply and finely woven—can ascent such an ensemble. (J. Crew offers a renouned Ludlow fit in it). In many offices, of course, conjunction is appropriate, generally if combined. “But for weekends, absolutely,” pronounced Christian Conroy, who works in customer family during UNFCU Advisors in New York. “My order is that a denim should be resisting colors.”
NO | A plain span of jeans has a undying appeal, yet a blue-collar due of denim-on-denim is as diverting now as it’s ever been, pronounced Mr. McLaughlin: “It usually works if you’re Chuck Norris.” Added Brian Valle, financial officer during a real-estate growth organisation in Washington, D.C.: “Or if we occur to be behaving some arrange of ranching function.” That a trend is large in this spring’s collections doesn’t meant much, Mr. Snyder said: “One out of 10 guys during best can lift off this demeanour yet looking like he’s operative on a railroad—so, if you’re even seeking this question, a answer should be no.”
Is a stubble demeanour passé?
YES | Supposedly a infrequent look, stubble fundamentally seems strict and intentional these days, argued Mr. McLaughlin. “It’s always a conform statement, [so] it looks a small ridiculous to me,” he said. “It implies ruggedness, yet when we consider that a chairman worked tough to get this—he had a special razor and fraudulent it all up—there’s zero healthy about it.” Now that a era of group has rediscovered a pester brush and hot-towel shave, because not suffer a smooth look?
NO | “I don’t consider stubble is ever going to go away,” pronounced Jeff Laub, owner of a shred code Blind Barber, formed in New York. “It comes opposite as a pointer of masculinity.” The trick, Mr. Snyder added, is to keep one’s stubble looking during slightest plausibly natural. (See Bradley Cooper.) “You don’t wish consistent stubble, or a trim line underneath a neck—that to me is a large no-no.” Stubble is quite confirmed when it comes to group who miss hair adult top. “It gives we some coverage, so we don’t demeanour like Mr. Clean,” Mr. Spade said.
Is a sockless demeanour stylish or uncouth?
STYLISH | “Loafers are some-more reasonably ragged yet socks,” pronounced
CEO of a New York tailor emporium Michael Andrews Bespoke. (He doesn’t worry wearing loafers in winter.) Worried about a smell? “Don’t do it mixed days in a row,” he added. The look’s intensity to lift eyebrows is partial of a point. “Girls like it,” claimed Page Leidy, a principal during a real-estate investment association in New York. That is, presumption we do it correctly, pronounced Mr. Spade: “You need a right shoe, like a classical Alden loafer, and we have to wear it with a breathe that’s slim and not too long.”
UNCOUTH | Newly common in some workplaces, unclothed ankles have annoyed recoil lately, on both sterilizing and cultured grounds. “lately. “I find a sockless thing a bit constructed during this stage, quite with that complicated brogue or wingtip,” Mr. McLaughin said. The demeanour is impractical, pronounced Mr. Snyder: “If we wish to keep a shoe for a prolonged duration of time, this is a wrong approach to do it—and there’s no approach to get a scent out.” For dynamic ankle exhibitionists, no-show socks—like Peds, that lay next a ankle line—help on a hygiene front.
Do we have to get my chinos hemmed or can we hurl them?
YES | Rolled breathe legs have turn boringly ubiquitous, some argue. Since when is it déclassé to wear chinos that are already a scold length? “This trend has left approach too far,” Mr. Sadik-Khan said. “Hemming pants is not some huge financial burden. If we can’t find a decent tailor, usually take them to your cleaners.” What began as an tractable repair has turn transparently faddish, pronounced Mr. Spade: “If you’re in Nantucket, sure, hurl them up. But a unwavering rolling thing looks a small bit too suspicion out.”
NO | Relax, people. Chinos are a infrequent trouser, always have been, and are not meant to be taken too seriously. Rolling is an generally good develop if it reveals a new detail, pronounced Mr. Valle: “With pants with engaging seams or linings, like Bonobos, we can see a interest of rolling for a cocktail of color.” Mr. Andrews added: “I’d most rather have rolled chinos than a slim persperate pant, that we’re saying a lot of now.” Still, this gesticulate derails when it comes to ideally tailored pairs, pronounced Mr. McLaughlin: “I would contend rolling looks improved on an ill-fitting span of chinos, with a wider leg. You’ve got to get it a small wrong to get it right.”
Is it ever suitable to wear a tailored blazer with shorts?
YES | The juncture of polished and loose is what creates this demeanour interesting. And, in some cases, pronounced Mr. Olch, it’s even functional: “On a prohibited day where a initial thing we contend to yourself is, ‘OK, I’m wearing shorts,’ a coupler can offer we well.” Approach this combo as a approach to dress adult shorts—slim, tailored shorts that finish usually above a knee—rather than sauce down a jacket. Mr. McLaughlin pronounced that patterned shorts “look quite good right now with a blazer.” Even he, though, would concur that this trend is improved matched to younger men.
NO | All-seasons grave on top, summer infrequent on bottom? The undo simply defies logic. Leave this bratty demeanour to character pros like
who’s usually about a usually man who can make it work. “Perfectly suitable in Bermuda. Otherwise, it creates group demeanour silly,” Mr. Andrews concluded. “Better to usually go with rolled chinos,” Mr. Yan advised. “Jeans and a blazer, we get,” Mr. Valle said. “But shorts usually seem so casual. And if I’m wearing shorts, that means it’s prohibited out, and so a final thing I’d wish to do is wear a blazer.”
Is Feb 28 too early to heartily discuss open fashion?
DEFINITELY | Who cares if stores are already pulling shorts and polo shirts and—in certain quarters—fishnet tank tops? “The second Arctic-chill-vortex has really cloyed me into meditative it’s approach too early to speak about spring,” Mr. Snyder said. “All we can consider about is how to stay warm.”
NAH! | For Mr. Andrews, whose association requires 8 weeks to make a bespoke clothes, business with early-onset open heat are welcome. As for a ready-to-wear buyer, Mr. Valle said, it’s never too early for escapism. “In winter, we hunger for spring. And conform has always been aspirational.”
Sources: Søren Jepsen (2), Getty Images (6), Trunk Archive (2), Illustration by Michael Hoeweler (4)